The curse of blotchy hyperpigmentation and brown spots.

Blotchy hyperpigmentation and brown spots — sometimes called age spots or sun spots — are among the most common skin concerns as we age. They’re caused by years of sun exposure, hormonal changes, and skin inflammation. In this article, we’ll explore what triggers them, how to treat them safely, and the best skincare ingredients and treatments for restoring clarity to your skin.

Reversing the curse of hyperpigmentation

Just like the mad musings of Lady Macbeth, once they appear, those damned brown spots of blotchy hyperpigmentation can be quite the curse. With despair in your heart, you may think that what has been done after a lifetime in the sun cannot be undone, and what’s done is done.

But fear not, all is not lost.

The uneven discolouration of pigmented cells can be quite distressing. And it’s especially true if what was once a beautiful tan begins to dismantle itself into something far less than the pretty golden glow you once aspired to in your youth and proudly showed off every summer. And your lovely tan is beginning to look a little tired. For many, this is not a happy occurrence!

On my ‘stay-out-of-the-sun’ soapbox once again. Is anyone listening?

In my early years in the beauty industry, I naively thought that if you (my client) knowingly exposed your skin to the sun for the sake of a tan, you would surely expect that tan to come undone one day.

I also somewhat regrettably and mistakenly thought we could discuss it openly without you (my client) bursting into floods of tears. How wrong was I?

Didn’t anyone warn my client about the dangers of excessive sun exposure on her skin 20-odd years ago? Didn’t she care? Or was it that voice in her head that scoffed? No! That happens to other people!

 I know only too well the emotion attached to this problem. Of course you’re upset!!

If you’ve known me for a while, you’re aware of my stance on unprotected sun exposure. You may as well be telling me you’ve decided to let your natural hair colour come through, or you don’t take your make-up off at night!! Or, one day, wearing stilettos is going to hurt my back!! All illicit a reaction of disbelief.

We all have our little quirks, and apart from removing your makeup at night, my idiosyncratic beliefs are entirely misguided.

But I jest, as blotchy pigmentation is a serious matter, and not only does it spoil the appearance of your skin, but it’s also an indication of the health of your skin.

Not all blotchy hyperpigmentation is caused by too much sun. We can break it down to three main causes.

Long-term sun exposure.

Without adequate broad-spectrum sun protection, prolonged exposure to the sun can lead to sun damage and hyperpigmentation. 

Depending on where you live, your genetics, and how diligent you are with your sun protection, your uneven pigmentation will become noticeable later in life.

Hormonally induced hyperpigmentation.

Also known as melasma, it often occurs during pregnancy or as a reaction to the contraceptive pill. If you have this kind of hyperpigmentation, you know what a beast it is to treat! Melasma is triggered by hormonal influences and exacerbated primarily by heat, whether it comes from the sun or a heated room.

Although important, broad-spectrum sun protection alone will not completely stop this problem.

It can be recognised by a distinctive mask-like appearance, usually on the face. If you have melasma, you should avoid treatments that use heat, such as laser therapy, as these can exacerbate melasma. Instead, consult your skincare professional about chemical peels, like the Deep Sea Peel from Cosmedix. 

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

This often occurs when the skin has suffered trauma, such as after acne, when the scarred skin becomes pigmented when exposed to the sun, or after treatments like chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or laser. During the initial healing stages, the skin is far more susceptible and, if not adequately protected from the sun, will suffer post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 

So what can you do to undo hyperpigmentation?

Can we ever escape the perils of the sun? Even when we’re hypervigilant, most of us will have some degree of sun-damaged skin. And once your feminine hormones begin to take flight from around the age of 40, it’s quite likely you’ll start to see the signs of hyperpigmentation. 

Skincare ingredients to manage hyperpigmentation.

But if spending a few thousand dollars to undo your blotchy hyperpigmentation is not something you want to do? Some excellent skincare ingredients can help reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation. It will take some time to clear the pigmentation, and your commitment will determine your results. Expect to see results within at least 12 weeks. 

So let’s unpack a few of these topical active ingredients to help combat your blotchy hyperpigmentation.

L-Ascorbic Acid.

There are so many reasons why Vitamin C should be in your skincare routine. Vitamin C reduces inflammation and minimises the effects of heat on your skin when applied topically. Vitamin C is also a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Tyrosinase is the enzyme that stimulates pigment in the first place. When your melanin cells become dysfunctional, vitamin C becomes a vital ingredient to minimise the output of this enzyme and cause an uneven scattering of pigment through your skin.

Look for pure L-Ascorbic acid in either a serum or powder formulation for the best results. For a more detailed review of vitamin C, you may like to read this article – Beauty 101: Collagen.

Niacinamide.

Also known as Vitamin B3, it is fast becoming a mainstay in many well-formulated skin care preparations. Among its many positive qualities, vitamin B3 can protect the skin from infrared heat, reducing inflammation and decreasing the transfer of pigment to the outer skin cells, where it becomes visible.

Or, to put it more simply, Niacinamide minimises the amount of pigment released into the surrounding skin, which can leave you with an uneven distribution of blotchy pigmentation.

You might also like this article:Niacinamide: Your Plan B.

Bearberry extract.

Bearberry, also known as uva ursi extract or arbutin, is a natural skin lightening agent that converts to hydroquinone once applied to the skin.

Like vitamin C, it inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, preventing excess pigment production. As a preventative measure, bearberry extract is a valuable active ingredient. And in most cases, it is well accepted by most skin types. 

Retinoids (vitamin A).

When treating hyperpigmentation, the best place to start is with retinoids. Commence with a daily dose of low-strength vitamin A esters, such as retinyl palmitate, acetate or propionate. Once your skin begins to tolerate vitamin A, you can progress to higher retinoid concentrations or over-the-counter retinol.

If you have pigmentation, a medical prescription for retinoic acid can help reduce uneven pigmentation by increasing cell turnover. Still, once vitamin A enters your skin cell, it’ll help repair any damage to the cell’s DNA. However, retinoic acid does have side effects, so it’s essential to get professional advice before commencing. 

Hydroquinone.

It has a bleaching or whitening action on the skin. While an effective ingredient for treating brown spots and hyperpigmentation in many countries, it is either banned or available only by prescription from a medical doctor.

To be effective, it needs to be at around 4 per cent, which is relatively high and not always well-tolerated, and can be quite drying to the skin.

Comparison research has been done on the effectiveness of hydroquinone versus niacinamide, and in both cases, the results over 12 weeks were excellent. So, it may come down to personal choice, including how easily you can obtain hydroquinone and whether it suits your skin overall.

As for me, I’d always choose Niacinamide because it offers numerous benefits for the skin’s overall health.

Which skincare ingredient is suitable for you?

As I mentioned earlier today, active skincare ingredients, when applied topically, are essential in slowly undoing hyperpigmentation and reversing the visible signs. You’ll find these ingredients in most high-quality cosmeceutical skincare brands. And it’s not so much a matter of choosing one over the other. All work together, giving you a far superior result than simply looking for a single active ingredient to help resolve hyperpigmentation. 

If you want to incorporate chemical peels into your hyperpigmentation regimen, you might enjoy this my chemical peels series.

What about in-clinic treatments?

Treatments such as Fractional Laser Resurfacing, Chemical Peels, LED Light, and Low-Frequency Sonophoresis can significantly reduce blotchy hyperpigmentation caused by the sun. And if you have a few thousand dollars to spare, then an all-out war on your pigmentation will reduce it significantly. Perhaps not entirely reversed, but significantly improved, and you’ll feel much happier with how your skin looks.

And now you?

So that’s hyper-pigmentation unpacked. Of course, if you’re serious about treating or preventing hyperpigmentation, a broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential. See, just one last little jump up on my soapbox before I go, because nothing changes unless we change habits. Right?

You may also find these articles helpful.

Mysterious melasma: Misunderstood and misdiagnosed.

Should you wear sun protection 365 days of the year?

Do you have hyperpigmentation? How have you managed it? Have you discovered a secret ingredient that works well for you? You can shoot me an email over here. I’d love to hear from you. 

See you next time,