Melasma is a pigment disorder that can be challenging to treat. It’s also one of the most misunderstood and misdiagnosed skin conditions.
Maybe you have melasma, or maybe you’re not sure. You’ve talked to different skin experts, and some say it’s sun-induced hyperpigmentation, while others think it’s the hormonal condition called melasma.
Melasma vs. Sun-Induced Hyperpigmentation: What’s the Difference?
It is sometimes also called chloasma and is often referred to as hyperpigmentation. Okay, great, but what causes it, and how is it different from sun-induced hyperpigmentation?
That’s a good question. But before I explain, it’s worth repeating: misdiagnosis of this skin condition is common. Given that it’s a skin pigment disorder, you would think it wouldn’t be such a big deal. But it is. Tackled in the wrong way, and the results can be disastrous!
Melasma can appear as darkened skin, but it’ll look different from blotchy pigmentation caused by years of sun exposure. Melasma will appear mask-like. It appears symmetrically and in particular areas of the face and body.
It may appear on the upper lip, giving the appearance of a moustache, or show up across the forehead or in large patches across the cheeks, a bit like a butterfly.
The catalyst? Usually, pregnancy, hormonal birth control, or hormone replacement therapy for menopause.
Melanin cells, known as melanocytes, are activated when the skin is exposed to UV radiation. The skin becomes tanned and thickened to protect it from future sun exposure.
Exposure to heat can trigger melasma, either directly from the sun or when the skin is heated in other ways.
Sitting in front of a fire, leaning over a hot stove or BBQ, or being in an overly hot room can all trigger melasma. Even a glass of wine can send a rush of heat into the skin and activate melasma.
In many cases, cessation of hormonal medications or when you’re no longer pregnant will usually improve the severity of melasma. But not always, especially if you spend a lot of time outdoors.
Sun protection is essential in minimising melasma; however, when you’re outside and exposed to the sun, your usual sun protection will do little to minimise melasma, as sunscreens don’t protect your skin from the sun’s infrared heat.
Of course, while wearing sunscreen, you may not be getting burnt, but your skin is still getting hot, and heat triggers melasma.
Why Common Treatments Fail
Melasma can be incredibly frustrating if misdiagnosed and treated as sun-induced hyperpigmentation, and mismanagement can lead to a worsening condition.
Treatments such as Laser or IPL that heat the skin can be the worst thing you can do and often stimulate a further cascade of unwanted pigmentation. So, be wary if you think you have melasma, and IPL or Laser has been recommended for your problem.
You may be feeling that all is lost.
Feeling confused is natural, but melasma can be resolved with the right care and patience. Getting the correct advice is important. Sometimes, the difference between melasma and sun-induced hyperpigmentation can be subtle.
However, if you’re able to pinpoint the arrival of your pigment to any hormonal event, such as pregnancy or hormonal birth control, and the pigment appears symmetrically or in an unusual place, like your upper lip, then it’s probably melasma.
Don’t second-guess it; get advice from a skincare professional.
Effective Ways to Manage Melasma
Whether you have melasma or sun-induced hyperpigmentation, the following will help reduce the visible symptoms of blotchy pigmentation.
Sun protection: Although melasma is not directly caused by the sun, wearing broad-spectrum sunscreen is essential. But there’s more you can do to protect your skin while it settles down.
Niacinamide: Also known as vitamin B3. It’s an excellent choice to include in your daily skin-protective routine. Niacinamide helps protect your skin from the heat of the sun, one of the primary triggers of melasma.
Vitamin C: A vital nutrient for skin health, helping to defend against the damaging effects of heat from the sun. Maintaining adequate vitamin C levels in your skin not only strengthens its natural defences but also helps to reduce enzyme activity responsible for excess melanin production.
Vitamin A: One of the skin’s most valuable nutrients. It’s your skin’s natural sunscreen. Unfortunately, sun exposure destroys vitamin A, so applying vitamin A serum or cream daily is essential to minimise melasma.
It’s important to note that all three nutrients, vitamins A, C, and B3, are protective and are often found to be deficient in the skin.
Hydroquinone: A bleaching agent available only with a prescription from your doctor. I’m not a fan of this; however, in small, regulated doses, it can help. I recommend a thorough examination with a dermatologist if you want to try hydroquinone.
Chemical Peels: It will largely depend on which type of peel you have. In my experience, most superficial peels, while helpful, will not eliminate melasma completely.
IPL and laser treatments: Recommended if you have melasma. They are heat-related devices* and will aggravate and trigger your melasma.
*IPL and Laser treatments heat the skin, and any heating of the skin will make your melasma worse.
Taking Control of Your Skin Health
All the solutions I’ve offered today will minimise melasma or hyperpigmentation, protect your skin, and ease the appearance of blotchy pigment.
It’s not the whole solution to melasma, but good skincare is always a great place to start.
But getting advice and the correct diagnosis of melasma can be confusing. If you’re unsure what your next step should be, you may want to get professional advice from an experienced skin care professional.
And you might also be interested in this article: The curse of blotchy pigmentation and brown spots.
See you next time,
