If a skincare company promises to smooth wrinkles, fade pigmentation, or clear up acne, you can bet (or at least hope) they’ve included some form of Vitamin A in their range.
However, not all Vitamin A derivatives are created equal, and navigating the options can be confusing. Some skincare brands don’t always choose the most effective forms, either. I’ve previously written about why Vitamin A is a non-negotiable in a solid skincare routine—today, let’s go deeper so you can make the best choice for your skin.
The Origin Story of Vitamin A
Or, how this humble vitamin became a skincare sensation.
Vitamin A was the first fat-soluble vitamin to be discovered, hence the not-so-imaginative name: Vitamin A. Its derivatives fall into two categories: retinoids (found in animal-based foods) and carotenoids (from plant-based foods). This powerhouse vitamin isn’t just essential for skin—it’s also crucial for vision, immune function, and overall health.
Fast forward to the 1960s, when dermatologist Dr. Albert Kligman, M.D., Ph.D., started experimenting with a form of Vitamin A known as tretinoin to treat acne. He quickly realised his patients weren’t just clearing up their breakouts—they also had fewer fine lines and wrinkles. This revelation led to the patent of Retin-A, one of the most famous prescription retinoids to this day.
Vitamin A: The Equal Opportunity Skin Fix
No matter what your skin concern is—acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation—Vitamin A has a role to play. It works by signalling skin cells to behave normally, essentially telling damaged or sluggish cells to regenerate properly. This process enhances cell turnover and, with consistent use, helps activate the enzymes responsible for collagen production.
But here’s the catch: not all Vitamin A formulations are equally effective, and jumping in too fast can leave you with unnecessary irritation.
How Vitamin A Works in Your Skin
Vitamin A doesn’t work instantly—your skin has to convert it into its active form, retinoic acid before it can work. The closer a derivative is to retinoic acid, the faster it works (but the higher the risk of irritation).
The conversion process looks like this:
Retinyl esters → Retinol → Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid
Retinoic acid is the only form your skin cells recognise immediately. Retinol takes two steps to convert to retinoic acid, while retinaldehyde only requires one step, making it more efficient.
The golden rule? Slow and steady wins the retinoid race. Start with milder derivatives before moving up the ladder.
Choosing the Right Vitamin A for Your Skin
Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Acetate, and Retinyl Propionate explained.
If you’re new to Vitamin A, esters are the gentlest starting point. These derivatives gradually convert to retinoic acid, making them ideal for beginners or those with sensitive skin. Environ Skincare takes a progressive approach with their Skin EssentiA™ range, which steps up the potency from AVST 1, 2 & 3 to AVST 4 and 5—a smart way to build tolerance without unnecessary irritation. In Australia, you can find this range at Skinmart.
Retinol
A popular over-the-counter option, retinol, requires two conversion steps to become retinoic acid. While this makes it less potent than prescription retinoids, it’s still highly effective for skin renewal. If you’re looking for a potent yet well-formulated option, Ella Baché’s Retinol Night Treatment Serum stands out. It contains 0.5% encapsulated retinol, making it a strong choice—but if you’re a newbie, introduce it slowly. You can pick it up at Adore Beauty.
Retinaldehyde
Retinaldehyde is the next best thing to prescription retinoids—it converts to retinoic acid in just one step and offers powerful results with minimal irritation. Because it’s more expensive to formulate, not all brands use it in meaningful concentrations. Look for at least 0.05% to 0.1% for real benefits. Aesthetics Rx™ Total Repair DNA Serum is a high-performing, irritation-friendly option at Adore Beauty.
Retinoic Acid (Prescription Retinoids)
Tretinoin (aka retinoic acid) is the gold standard for skin transformation and is available only with a prescription in Australia. Unlike other forms, it doesn’t need conversion—it binds directly to skin cell receptors. While it delivers unmatched results for acne, wrinkles, and pigmentation, it can also cause significant irritation, so it’s not for the faint-hearted. The key is to start low and go slow—a pea-sized amount is all you need.
4 Tips when starting with the best Vitamin A for your skin?
Vitamin A has its fair share of beauty myths. With so much information flying around, how do you choose the best retinoid formulation for your skin?
#1 Is the formula stable?
Like most nutrients, Vitamin A becomes unstable when exposed to sunlight and is depleted from the skin. It’s a good idea to apply it daily. If your daytime moisturiser has a low concentration of Vitamin A, even better—save the potent serums for nighttime use.
#2 Packaging does matter
Look for opaque containers and airless pumps to protect the stability of Vitamin A and minimise exposure to air and light.
#3 Does topical vitamin A make your skin sun sensitive?
Well, not directly. Vitamin A itself doesn’t make your skin sun-sensitive, but if you’re experiencing irritation from a retinoid, your skin may be more reactive. If that happens, take a break and stay out of the sun until your skin calms down. On the other hand, if your skin is tolerating your retinoid application and the skin is calm and balanced, then you will not be hyper-sensitive to the – having said that, always wear sunscreen to shield your skin from the damage the sun can wield upon your skin.
#4 Yep, wear sunscreen every day.
As with any skincare routine aimed at minimising signs of ageing and sun damage, broad-spectrum sunscreen is a must. There’s no point in taking all this effort only to undo it with continued sun exposure. Right?
Where to now?
If you’re serious about adding a retinoid serum to your routine, seeing a skin care professional can make all the difference. They’ll help you choose the best retinoid for your skin type and guide you through the adjustment phase.
That said, if you’re diving in solo, start low and go slow – your skin will thank you later.
Already using a retinoid? I’d love to hear about your experience! Drop me an email.
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See you next time,
